Adventures in Vintage Resales... fka adventures in baby-sewing

Ok, working slowly on the wrap dress below. The dress itself seems fine, except for needing to adjust the shoulders near the neck, basically flattening the shoulder. This is customary for me. It's the set in sleeves that are beating me up. I can not get enough ease to pull them up right on the shoulders. I have been checking the books, it seems there is not enough ease and recommends spreading the pattern up the center. I have only one piece left about the size of a fat quarter. If you were me, would you cut and spread and add a gusset/insert in the center and act like it should have been there? Please help!

This is McCall 5356, Crafty tunic, will probably look like a muumuu on me. My dilemma is CB seam. I thought I cut them matching, I guess I did not (I cut this out late night about a week ago.) Should I proceed? There is no more fabric, so recutting is not an option. Or is the not-matching too much? This makes me so frustrated. Any opinions???

I tried it on again, seriously this time, and it only gaps about 2-3" in front at the hem. I still would like an extra inch or two for ease, so the question still remains, just not as desperate an adjustment. I also was able to compensate for swayback in the back. Overall the 44 fits fairly well, better than Big 4. The shoulder slope & upper back is better, I have a flatter broader shoulder (always have). The darts had better placement for my size. Would slashing the muslin from the hem to waist and adding a small amount in a few locations evenly spaced be a good option?

I have cut out this shirt and muslined it without sleeves. Now the 44 seems to fit in the bodice well enough, I can adjust it slightly if needed. The bodice from the waist to the hips needs work. At the hem it needs about 5-6 inches for comfortable coverage and the smallest gap starts about the waist, so we are looking at a pie-shaped gap. With the assymetrical opening and needing more than a grading to the largest size, 46, what would be the best way to alter this muslin? I need your help, please!!! Here is the link to the pattern, I cannot get a picture to post: http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/115_Dress_technical_drawing/1270777-1463237-1503695-1503698-1503803-1503805.html

I haven't posted all week because the blue dress is vexing me so. It is all basted together, (waist, sleeves) and, even though not pressed and crooked on the dressform, looks fine. Put it on and it fits fairly well. Need to adjust back waist to take up for a bit of swayback, take more off hem to keep it around the knees and curve the bust darts inward a bit. I also think the sleeve hem could be shortened a bit. It's that tie collar, though. I am considering taking it all out and going collar-less. It is too much on my bodice against my face. I need some suggestions. Help!

I am working on a vintage pattern that has a tie that is sewn between the bodice neck and the facing and then the tie ends knot at the neck v. It called for sew-in interfacing (yeah, right) and I used light weight fusible called Fusi-form, which seems too stiff. I am using broadcloth for the ties. My gut is to skip interfacing. What has happened is it is too stiff to baste around the curve of the neckline to be basted into place. Any suggestions?